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| Shishidoshi |
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| Hara stone |
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| Strong enough to protect Buddha |
Yesterday morning we visited Kiyomizu dera Temple. (See entry of ...) Much less crowded than in the fall. We found the Tainai-meguri temple, so went down (figuratively of course) the steps into the dark (pitch black actually) "womb" of the motherly Buddha (Daizuigu-Bosatsu), holding tightly to the beaded railing and walking very slowly, making many 90 degree turns. The journey takes you to the dimly lit stone with "hara" written on it, which you push clockwise to grant your prayer. You emerge into the daylight "pure and reborn". I think it's an especially important place to visit if you are pregnant. Once again the scale of Kiyomizu was astonishing. We lit a candle for Ganmaa. Then had a nice "winter set" lunch with sesame tofu, soup with yuba (soy milk skin - a specialty of Kyoto) and a sort of hot risotto with miso and vegetables and some fu.
Today, on a walk through southern Gion, we started by Sanjusangendo temple and stumbled into the middle of Toh-shiya, the yearly archery contest held in the long courtyard. This has been going on for more than 500 years apparently, and celebrates the first shooting of arrows in the New Year (there are many "firsts" of the New Year celebrated). Whereas people used to shoot targets at 120 meters for 24 hrs at a time (the record was set in 1688 with someone hitting the target 62% of the time using 8,132 arrows). Now there are just 2 tries at 60 meters but thousands of archers, both 20 year olds and more expert archers of all ages. The young women wear their fancy kimonos with the sleeves tied back and a special overskirt and chest protection. The massive crowded prevented any hope of seeing the actual shooting, so we went off on our walk, marveling at the thought of shooting bows and arrows all dressed up in fancy kimonos in wintery weather. We enjoyed our walk through Gion, and had tea and sweet bean soup (hot) with toasted rice cakes at the tiny shop Kasagi-ya, where we had been with Cecilia and John. A perfect tea shop. Now we feel much more at home and can even say a few Japanese words to get our needs across (sometimes).
A word on the first photograph (not mine). It is a shishidoshi (or "deer-scared fountain"). I had seen (and heard) one in the garden of Shisendo Temple near Shugakuin. Aside from the beauty of the garden, the rhythmic thwack of the bamboo on the stone added to the meditative feel of the space. The bamboo tube slowly fills with water, then tips over, strikes a stone, empties, and tips back. Another brilliant creation for Win to build in our own garden.
Love to all from us both.
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