The Silver Pavilion (Ginkaku-ji) and Daimonji-yama

29 October 2011

I love
My hut
At the foot of the Moon-awaiting Mountain
And the reflection
Of the sinking sky.

        -Shogun Yoshimasa (1436-1490)

     Saturday was perfect (warm) fall weather.  So we decided to make an early start for Ginkaku-ji, known as the Silver Pavilion.  The temple originated in the 1400's as a villa for the Shogun Yoshimasa, who being weary of the political world of the time, withdrew to devote himself to the arts.  The garden is spectacularly beautiful, consisting of a pond garden with seven stone bridges.  A sea of raked sand spreads out from the main hall and reflects the moon light onto the gardens. The large sand cone (Kogetsudai or moon-viewing platform) had various meanings attributed to it: possibly meant to be a source of sand for the sand garden, or a representation of Mt. Fuji, or meant to reflect divine light into the hearts of viewers.  The Silver Pavilion (not silver but ancient weathered wood) is small and exquisitely graceful.  The main hall was open for the month for tours of its treasures, and so we were able to see some of the gardens in the back and some wonderful screens, both ancient and 19th century impressionist, and the kaisho (or gathering room) where arts such as tea, poetry, flower arranging, incense appreciation were practiced and refined.  As you climb up the hill behind through the moss gardens, you get a wonderful view of both Kyoto and the temple.  I look forward to returning in winter.  The gardeners sweep the moss with delicate straw brushes, pick up maple seeds and stray leaves etc., and generally leave the landscape impeccably tidy.  Many trees have their longest branches resting on bamboo poles, a common sight in all the gardens.

     After a cup of matcha, we set off to climb Daimonji-yama, the mountain seen easily from all over Kyoto which has a vast dai kanji slashed into the upper slope (dai means great and is one of about 4 kanji I can recognize!).  The climb was a short, somewhat steep and very well-used trail which leads to an overlook which seemed to be a popular picnic spot for young and old alike.  Every year on Aug 16 (Daimonji no Okuribi),  great fires are lit (see photo), first on Daimon-ji and then on other surrounding mountains in succession.  The fires are burned to bid farewell to the spirits of ancestors after the spirits have visited the earth for that day.

    We hope all our friends are surviving the untimely October snow we have read about!  Not a sign of cold weather around here yet.

     We miss everyone and send love