The Moss Temple and The Cricket Temple

Moss Garden at Saiho-ji

Bell Crickets and cage

10 February 2012

Having written ahead to the monks at Saiho-ji (the Moss Garden Temple or Koke-dera), we received permission to visit on the 10th (a requirement for all visitors due to the need to limit the number of people and buses in the area of the moss garden).   Since we arrived early, we were able to have a nice lunch in a nearby, very ancient soba noodle shop (this time some sort of foamy arrangement on top of the soup plus and egg yolk).  The temple is a many centuries old Zen temple.  After being let in, visitors first recite sutras with a monk, and then write a wish on a wooden board (the man next to me, speaking to me in English, suggested with a twinkle in his eye that I just write I hope to be rich, but I thought it more appropriate to express a more compassionate sentiment).  When the ceremony was over, we were able to walk through the beautiful, peaceful garden.  The pond is shaped like the Chinese character for "heart".  Apparently the original gardens designed in the 14th century,  fell into disrepair and were eventually covered by moss, now very much treasured.  There are said to be 120 species of moss growing there.  Even in winter, it is quite green - the softness of the moss and the many shades of green lend a quiet and gentle feel to the landscape.

We had an hour or so before the return bus was to leave, so we wandered around the area and up a long flight of worn stone steps, finding ourselves in a small crowd entering a temple called Suzumushi Temple.  Suzumushi means cricket, and the priest who founded this temple was inspired by the summer song of the bell cricket, and determined to keep the song year round.  Thus crickets were raised and nurtured inside the temple and indeed can be heard loudly all year round singing from their cages.  While they sing the priest delivers a talk to the audience who relax and enjoy tea and a sweet.  It is said that the Kofuku Jizo (or happy Jizo) whose statue is outside, will deliver one wish to each person if he knows your wish and your address.  That is why he has straw sandals on his feet.  So lots of young people come to this temple to make wishes about jobs, success in school, marriage etc.  This is one example of why wandering around Kyoto is such a joy!

We send love and wish you could hear the crickets too, B&W