Sunday, January 8, 2012

Water Koto, Dry Garden, Golden Pavillion

8 January 2012

Kinkaku-ji or the Golden Pavillion

Kaki (persimmon)
Ryoan-ji


Suikinkutsu (water koto)


     Since Win had no classes this past week and the first week of January seems like an extended Japanese holiday, we had ample time for leisurely winter walks around Kyoto.  My wonderful Japanese conversation teacher, Araki-sensei, had left us tickets for a miniature bonsai exhibition, so we went to see it.  It was quite a sight - rows and rows of exquisite bonsai ranging in size from a plants in thimble-sized pots to pines about a foot or two.  Many of the plants are artfully arranged on graceful stands in groups of 3 or 5 pots of different sorts, I'm sure following rules unfamiliar to us.  The old gnarled trees and delicate blossoming shrubs etc are meant to remind one of certain particular landscapes or moods. 

      Saturday we visited Kinkaku-ji, the famous Golden Pavillion.  (Above photo is from the internet as the day, while cold and blustery, was not snowy.)  The temple is nearly completely covered in gold leaf, which on a calm day reflects in a beautiful lake.  There is a beautiful bronze Ho-o bird on the roof.  Gardens are lovely.  In contrast is the stark garden of Ryoan-ji Temple, a Zen masterpiece of 15 stones placed starkly in a sea of sand, surrounded by an ancient earthen wall.  There is a viewing platform for contemplation, from which you can never see all 15 stones at once.  My photo cannot do it justice.  The cold day seemed to keep down the number of visitors, so it was more peaceful than our visit in 2008.  The heron and the persimmons caught my eye as we walked around the beautiful pond surrounded by mossy garden.

     Yesterday we headed for Eikan-do Temple (see post of 19 October 2011) and a winter walk along the philosopher's walk.  It was very quiet and peaceful in the morning, the way I think a visit to a temple should be but rarely is.  We both agreed we will take our visitors there.  It was so quiet that we were able to listen to the water koto (see diagram above).  From the tsubaki (place for hand washing), water drips into a buried upside down ceramic pot and if the structure is just so,  lovely tones resembling those of the koto can be heard.  If you ladle water into the top, then a small melody is audible.  Needless to say it will be Win's next garden project when we get home!

     We enjoyed our wintery walk along the Philosopher's Path.   Many beautiful camellias trees are blooming, and there is a profusion of bushes with bright red berries.  We warmed up with some ramen soup with egg and pork, and then went to the small Honen-in Temple (which was closed), but we found the cemetery where we had visited with J & C to find the grave of the philosopher, Kuki Shuzo.  Not being able to read the stones on our own, we could not refind it, but the spot brought back a wonderful memory.

We send love to all













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