Sayonara Japan, 2018

Tuesday, 29 May 2018

Well, we may not look as spiffy as the above poster suggests, and in spite of unforeseen hardships, we agreed we had a wonderful trip to Japan, we continue to feel at home and grateful to our friends here and appreciative of the beauty of the culture and the country.

A Short Expedition in Tokyo

Monday, 28 May 2018

A day on our own in Tokyo - Win having low energy and Tokyo being dauntingly large and unfamiliar to us, we decided to take a cab to a craft store recommended by Junko.  The subway map looks worse than a computer wiring diagram!  The store had very beautiful and expensive pieces, and it was fun to browse.  We only made a few small purchases (I missed the little places I knew in Kyoto and don't know where anything is in Tokyo...) . After we strolled down the road and came upon a lovely shrine, Toyokawa Inari Shrine, where the monks were holding a service so we had a chance to sit quietly and listen to the chanting, drums, and bells.  Then we wondered around looking for lunch and found a hole-in-the-wall ramen place which filled us up substantially.  Cab back to hotel, nap for Win, and I went out to explore a bit more- did not find the place I was looking for but had a good hour and a half walk through some very varied neighborhoods.  Dinner in the hotel grill was fine and to bed early.

Fox, guardian of greain

Shrine statue

Shrine

Subway map!

A Day in Tokyo with Junko san and Ritsuko san

Sunday, 27 May 2018

Very comfortable hotel and Win feeling somewhat better, thank goodness.  Ample breakfast, after which Junko and Ritsuko came to the hotel to take us on a Tokyo outing.  Our first stop was the lovely old garden, Hama-rikyu, once the family garden of the Tokugawa Shogun, now a beautiful open space with ponds formed by incoming tidal water, a magnificently reconstructed tea house, lovely trees, irises in bloom everywhere.  We stopped for Matcha and a sweet.  Then we walked over to see the very large Tsukiji Hongwanji Temple of the Jodo sect.  Not as lovely in our opinion as the old wooden temples we have so frequently visited.  After this Win decided to return to Hotel Niwa for rest, and the three of us walked on to the the Tsukiji open air market (the large fish market is apparently not open to tourists any longer).  Very colorful and obviously a great place for a Sunday stroll, or to pick up various Japanese food items, eat street food etc.  We watched with delight as a cook made batch after batch of Tsumago (layered omelet).  Our last adventure was a trip to The Museum of the History of Edo, a capacious museum with reconstructed homes, dioramas of the old city and much fascinating information on the social and cultural aspects of life in Edo.  I toppled over (very embarrassing) when I was encouraged to lift the long pole with a heavy bamboo bucket of fish on either end, but otherwise it was great fun.  Junko went off to a Sumo match nearby (she is one of three  Vice Presidents of Tokyo and attends many cultural events).  Ritsuko and I had coffee and pudding to revive ourselves, and we talked a lot about social welfare (her area of writing as a journalist).  Afterwards we went back to the hotel to fetch Win and out to an old soba noodle restaurant (Kanda Yabu Soba).  Very full and tired after a fine dinner, we said our goodbyes and agreed we should return in 2020 when Junko will be working on Tokyo's role in the summer olympics.  We have known Junko since 1990, so it is very hard to say good bye again.

Hamma-rikyu Garden

Rebuilt tea house

Ritsuko and Junko Inokuma

Tsukiji Temple

Tsukiji Open Market

B. at the market

Dinner at the soba restaurant

A Last Hike and on to Tokyo

Mountain Scenery

Saturday, 26 May 2018

Do not think
  "I'll go as I please!"
when taking a journey.
   Rather, think, "I may have some problems,"
and you'll be free as a bird.
           -Yasumni Roan   

After our last night in the charming, Meijii era Ryokan, Tsuruya, we had a fine Japanese breakfast and organized our by now filthy belongings in our packs.  Win was still feeling flulike with cough and weakness etc, and felt unable to make the 6.7 mile walk to Kokokawa Station, so after some anxious deliberation I decided to make the walk solo and Win would take the bus to the station.  I took a cab up the mountain to Touge, and started on a beautiful hike through the forest.  No another soul for the first few hours.  The loud din of crickets and birds, butterflies, morels, amazing old trees with twisted roots, more Jack-in-the-pulpets, old stones marking battles, events, poetry etc, old abandoned tea houses, and even once a very large snake (which actually caused me to scream) entertained my walk.  For the most part it was a comfortable downhill, but the last part before the several miles on the abandoned railway track was quite steep, and after some 5 hours or so my legs were pretty tired.  But I found the station and Win sleeping forlornly on a bench.

Took two trains to Tokyo station and walked to our hotel (Hotel Niwa).  Win actually was feeling the need to see a doctor, and when Ritsuko arrived around 5:30, we were able to arrange a visit to St. Luke's International Hospital.  After a while we left Win in the ER to meet Junko at the art festival in Roppongi  (Win had a slight fever but no pneumonia by X-ray and was sent home with symptomatic treatment). 

Our evening was delightful - the art festival, just one night, had many ccreative installations, including a giant clear balloon of a human being, a cab on top of a truck with huge red cone teeth, and many others.  Around 8 we went to a fantastic Japanese restaurant for a tradition meal in our own dining room, with 4 servings of everything (the 4th being Win's).  All delicious and delicate - mostly fish dishes.  We started with lovely peach champagne!  Sorry Win couldn't be with us.  Finally home to the hotel by 11:30, and luckily a real bed which was most welcome!

Meijii era lobby of Tsuruya Ryokan

Through the woods

        

Morels om the woods

Trailside Poetry

   

Ripongi Art Festival

From Narai to Karuizawa

Friday, 26 May 2018

[Confuscius said.,] "Fish are made for water; men are made for the Road.  Those who are made for the water immerse themselves totally in ponds and are nourished by them.  Those who are made for the Road live carefree and tranquil.  Thus it is said, 'Fish do not think about the water, and men do not worry about the Road or how to walk it.'"

Well, that might not be entirely true, but a walking trip has many advantages in terms of appreciating small details and getting a feeling for a place.  Out only problem is Win still feeling pretty sick (?flu), so walking a big effort.  Today was less walking and more train travel: a short walk to Kiso-Hirasawa (a lacquerware center) and then the train to Karuizawa via Matsumoto.  We had time to stop in Matsumoto, a relatively big city, and walk to Matsumoto Castle (known as Crow Castle due to being black).  Built about 1592 and amazingly well preserved.  I took a walk through while Win rested in the shade.  It is an impressive sight, inside and out.  Back on the traine to Karuizawa via Nagano, and then a walk through the resort town of Karuizawa to our Ryokan, Tsuruya.  Very comfortable room, lovely hot baths, and a very delicious dinner which slightly revived Win.

Dressed for dinner in our yukatas - a sight to behold!

School children at the station

Matsumoto Castle

By Train to Narai

Thursday May 24, 2018

You should not sleep twice in the same inn.  Your thoughts should be on a mat that has not yet been warmed.   -Basho, Rules on Pilgrimages

Totally alone
I walk right through
Hokusai's print.
Summer at dusk
on the Kiso road.
       -Yoshii Isamu 

We had two lovely nights at Komanoyu Ryokan in Kiso Fukushima, enjoying excellent food and an especially inviting indoor/outdoor hot bath.  Win was feeling quite under the weather unfortunately, so we decided to forgo walking and take the train all the way to Narai.  Arriving in the morning long before check in time, we meandered down the the central street of the town, immaculately restored, and indeed looking as if it was out of a Hokusai print.  Win rested while I did some further exploring, visiting the folk museum, some shrines and old cemeteries . In one of the cemeteries is a statue of a headless Mary holding a baby Jesus in her arms.  The head was cut off in Edo times, when Christianity was banned.  In the afternoon we found our Ryokan (Ikariya Machida Minshuku), a very simple place run by a very friendly couple, but not our favorite place to stay.  For one thing, the bath was way too hot!  But dinner was more than adequate.

Narai

A poster that caught our attention

Narai

Jizo, protector of children

Ikariya Machida Minshuku

Maria Jizoson

Gongentaki Falls on a Rainy Day

Wednesday, 23 May 2018

After a fine breakfast with all Japanese fixings, we set off on a cool, overcast day to hike to the Gongentaki Waterfall.  Setting out from the JR train station, the walk was about 4 1/2 miles.  After walking through the town along the Kiso River and then across the river, we started up into the forrest path to the falls.  The trail was described as "narrow, steep and fairly strenuous", but this seemed like an understatement.  At least a half mile straight up!  Win wasn't feeling very well (bronchitis), so it was particularly hard for him.  But guess what - we made it!  Not another soul was there.  The falls are delicate, shimmery and silvery on the rocks, musical and magical.  Worth suffering for.  There was a famous battle in the Heian Period (794-1185) in which the general prayed to the god of the Gongentaki waterfall (documented in Heike Monogatari).

Luckily the trip down around the ridge was a gradual descent, not difficult.  A light rain was not really any problem, and we found our way back to Kiso Fukushima where we had a delicious hot lunch in and old restored restaurant.  The cook was eager to tell us about his daughters who married Americans and lived in Wisconsin.  I had a hold dish of soy milk skin cooked at the table, which is something I have always liked.  Win had a good pork cutlet.  We had to wait until 3 for our ride back to Komanoyu, where the lovely hot bath was just what we both needed!  Shabu-shabu for dinner was excellent!  To bed early.

Magnificent Jack-in-the-pulpet

Tons of love.

Kiso River

Gongentaki Fall

Ontake Daigongen

Typical breakfast

day

Tusmago to Kiso-Fukushima via Nagiso

Walking the Kiso Road

Tuesday, 22 May 2018

Awoke to a lovely sunny day and a fine Japanese breakfast.  We took a leisurely stroll through the town of Tsumago, before the arrival of travelers and just as shops were starting to open.  The town has ben beautifully restored, as the photos show.  We passed by a children's day exhibit (dolls for girls, funny sumo figures for boys.  As this town uses a more ancient holiday calendar than modern Japan, boys' day is coming soon and fish kites were flying.  Stopped for a drink and the local specialty, Gohei Mochi (toasted sticky rice on a popsicle stick with a sweet soy/walnut coating).  Back to the inn to fetch our packs and said good bye to the very friendly owner, who told us this Ryokan had belonged to her parents.

Set off on the 2.3mile walk to the Nagiso train station,  Through the woods, by ancient stone markers and shrines, small hamlets.  Found some lunch in the sleepy town of Nagiso, and had about a 2hr wait for the train to Kiso-Fukushima.  When we arrived, we were met by the van to take us about 10minutes into the hills to our very lovely, much bigger ryokan, Komanoyu.  We have a large and comfortable room, and immediately changed into our yukata and headed for the hot baths(indoor and outsoor), which are communal in the Japanese manner and very inviting.  (See the photo of a billboard which shows ladies in an outdoor bath.) . We had a fine dinner, enjoyed talking with a couple from Australia, and being toasted by some sloshed Japanese gentlemen who offered local sake to the entire dinner crowd.  To bed early, on lovely but too hard futons.

Straw sandals

Sumo dools

Bamboo forest

Tsumago

Kites for boys' day

Japanese style pine

Ancient stone artifact

Japanese outdoors hot bath

Leaving the ryokan in Tsumago

Walking the Kiso Road: Magome to Tsumago

Monday, 21 May 2018

Last breakfast at the Oyama's apartment and some cleaning up, before leaving for Kyoto Eki to catch the train for  Nagano via Nagoya, and then the bus up into the mountains to Magome, where our walking adventure started.  The Nakadendo Road has been used for thousands of years, and connected Kyoto with Edo (Tokyo) in the Edo Period.  Along the way are some 69 post towns where travelers rested, etc., many of which have been restored with narrow, cobbled streets, dark wooden houses with tiled roofs, small shirnes, old stone artifacts, and of course tourists from all over the world.  The Kiso Road is a particular section through the Kiso valley - the most scenic part.

It was a beautiful, clear day when we arrived at Magome, eager to set off with our packs which now seemed excessively heavy,  Wonderful views of Mt. Ena in the distance,  We did not stop to see the museum, eager to start the walk.  Much of the walking was through shady bcypress or bamboo forests, near noisy streams, or along old cobbled paths.  The first third was a serious uphill trek over the Magmoe-toge pass.  We stopped for lunch a a friendly noodle shop before continuing. Every so often there were bells to ring to ward off bears (none seen by ourselves)!  The hike turned out to be quite strenuous for us, but we did go the distance to Tsumago, arriving at our Ryokan (Daikichi Minshuku) around 5.  We  layed out your own futon, changed into a yukata, enjoyed a much needed soak in a wonderful warm tub make of cypress (took some Advil for aching muscles!) and had a lovely meal of many small dishes including delicious small mushrooms, a smoke trout,  tempura of beautiful vegetables with tea flavored salt, a few roasted crickets, a bit of duck, a little sashimi and a dish of delectable soft tofu eaten with a spoon, which is most but not all of what was on the tray!  All the while we are sitting on the floor in the most ungainly, un-Japanese fashion with our legs stuck out in front of us.  There were other guests from Spain, UK, and Australia.  Bed felt wonderful, hard as the futons are when bones are aching.  We agreed it had been a fine day, and hope to explore Tsumago in the morning.

Lunch time

Along the road

Mt. Ena

"Ring bell hard against bears"

Magome

At the bus stop in Nakatusgawa

Nara with Hisato san and Kuniko san

Sunday, 20 May 2018

A clear and cool day.  We set off for Nara where we were met by Hisato Harada, one of Win's students, the oldest one.  He and his wife have a lovely house and small Japanese garden, and they treated us to a long, leisurely and excellent meal, including one dish of rice, tuna and shrimp, another of boiled eggplant, chicken, leek and sesame, soy, ginger dressing, soup with delicious little clams, among other dishes.  Wish I had the recipes.  We exchanged many stories and pictures of grandchildren.  Their daughter is married to a Peruvian and lives in Peru.  Also spoke Yosuke Tomatsu by phone.  He works with traumatized children in a school near the area of the Tsunami. 
After lunch we drove up into the southern hills of Kyoto to see a very ancient temple, Joruri-ji, built in 1157 by a small lake, containing 9 Buddha statues, lords of the Western Paradise.  A very peaceful end of the day.
By 6 we said good bye and returned to our little apartment, organizing our belongings in order to carry as little as possible on the trek and send the suitcase on to Tokyo.  It has been our good fortune to be in the Oyama's apartment, and we feel we could almost settle into our life again in Kyoto!

Pagoda at Joruri-ji Templer

Hisato san, Win and Kumiko san

Lake at Joruri-Ji